Introduction to the fundamentals of “The Braise” June 24 2014
The main ingredient of most braised dishes are muscles of “local motion.” Local motion refers to the part of the animal that are exercised or mobile throughout its life. For example, muscles in the shoulder and/or leg. Veal Osso Buco is probably the most popular. These muscles contain the highest amount of connective tissue; which turns into gelatin when exposed to temperatures of 160-170F. See link below.
http://www.scienceofcooking.com/meat/slow_cooking1.htm
The process of braising yields gelatin rich cooking liquid and meat that “falls off of the bone.”If there is no bone, the meat should be “fork tender”or falling apart. A very important step that is often overlooked is that the braised meat should be cooled in the same liquid in which it was cooked. In the name of common sense, fork tender does not mean that you begin with a beautiful veal shank, cheek,... that is macerated into a “hash-like”end product. It should maintain “structural integrity.”The end product should maintain a shape that is similar to the shape it was before cooking. This is why we don’t just boil the meat in the first place.
Some examples are as follows.
Provençal classic daube de boeuf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daube
Osso Buco Milanese
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ossobuco
Veal or Beef Cheeks
http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Joues-de-Boeuf-Confites-Braised-Beef-Cheeks
The best braises are the ones that are made at least one day prior to consumption.
When ready to serve, pull desired amount of meat and jus (commonly referred to as “braisage”) from the original braise and reheat slowly. When the main ingredient is hot remove from the jus and plate. Return the jus back to the heat. At this point add fresh herbs, an acidic component (just enough to revitalize the flavor, not to make the sauce tart) and a little cold butter. Check for proper seasoning and spoon on and around the main ingredient.
Steps are as follows:
- Main ingredient is seasoned, dusted with flour and browned in an appropriate sized cooking vessel.
- After GBD (golden brown and delicious) on all sides, remove and deglaze with full bodied red wine This is generally referred to as the maillard or flavor reaction. See the link below.
http://modernistcuisine.com/2013/03/the-maillard-reaction/
- Next, add the main ingredient along with the browned mirepoix or the vegetables that compliment the dish. Along with any dry herbs and seasonings.
- Add enough warm stock to come up ⅔rds the side of the main ingredient.
- Lower heat to a low simmer (about 160 degrees fahrenheit. Cover with a cartouche. See link below.